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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.